The trail briefly follows Straight Branch (a small stream), then turns left at .1 mile. At 2.1 miles, the trail intersects the Iron Mountain Trail (2850'). I don't recall there being any view here, even though the trail guide says there is one. At 4.6 miles, the trail leaves the woods and crosses US 58. It then follows the Virginia Creeper Trail for perhaps half a mile before getting into the town of Damascus. The section ends at the Damascus Town Hall (1928') on Laurel Avenue (US 58).
I walked this section on a pleasant October afternoon and found it to be an enjoyable portion of the "long green tunnel". Damascus, VA is considered to be the premier (AT) trail town. It is the home of the well-known "Trail Days" festival, held the weekend of the third Saturday in May each year. I've had the opportunity to attend twice.
Damascus is also the location of Mount Rogers Outfitters on Laurel Avenue, owned and operated by Jeff Patrick. He also operates a hostel across the street from the store. I have frequently passed through Damascus on the way to or from hikes and/or other outings. I've also had the opportunity to ride the Virginia Creeper Trail (by bicycle) from Whitetop Station (1111'fix) to Damascus. This is a 17 mile, all downhill and mostly shaded rail trail.
Virginia 859 is a gravel road that turns south off of US 58 about 10 miles east of Damascus. The trail crossing is about a mile off of US 58. The trail passes among rhododendron along Whitetop Laurel Creek in the early part of the section. At .6 miles, the trail joins with the Virginia Creeper Trail at the point at which both cross the Luther Hassinger Memorial Bridge. At 1.3 miles, the AT Leaves the Virginia Creeper Trail and ascends through woods. At 2.8 miles, the trail passes a good campsite next to a man-made pond. Then at 2.9 miles, a violet blazed trail, known as the Bear Tree Gap - Shaw Gap Trail leads right to the Bear Tree Gap Campground and on beyond to the Iron Mountain Trail. At 5.2 miles, there is a blue blazed trail leading to the Saunders Shelter. I made a brief stop there, sharing the area with a large group of teenagers and their leaders. As I left the shelter, they were lining up in preparation for continuing their hike. At 7.0 miles, the trail turns sharply right with Whitetop Laurel Creek below and to the left in a gorge. Most of the last 1.3 miles of the section is sidehill trail, along the side of Straight Mountain with the creek and the Virginia Creeper Trail below and to the left . Once the trail descends to the stream level, there are several campsites - just before reaching US 58.
I hiked this section on a very unusual day for July. It was overcast, but rain free with temperatures that never got out of the 60s. There were views through the trees from time to time, but none were particularly striking - but it was a cloudy day, with a somewhat low ceiling. Clouds were touching some of the mountaintops and probably obscuring others. After finishing the section, I went over to Beartree Gap Campground and enjoyed a refreshing swim. By that time, the sun had come out. It had also warmed up a bit, though not very much.
Special Note The Grayson Highlands State Park/Mt. Rogers (NRA) area:
This is my favorite area in the eastern U.S. The Appalachian Trail guide to Southwest Virginia says that "the variety of terrain is unparalleled in the southern Appalachians ". The (northbound) trail through the area stretches from US 58 (near Summit Cut) to Fox Creek on VA 603, about 4 mile west of Troutdale, VA - a distance of 26 trail miles .
The portion of this section from Elk Garden (VA 600) to Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park (about 8 miles) is the heart of this area. The astounding part of the section is the several miles over Wilburn Ridge between Massie Gap and Rhododendron Gap. Wilburn Ridge is open with several very large rock outcroppings. Also, there are 2 other trails that parallel the AT (between Massie Gap and Rhododendron Gap) - the Wilburn Ridge Trail which goes over the outcroppings and the Rhododendron Gap trail which is primarily a horse trail. Both are appealing and worthwhile hiking as well - indeed it would be worthwhile to hike both as a loop side hike off of the AT. The Appalachian Trail skirts around the rocky outcroppings and (near Rhododendron Gap) passes through a small cave along the side of one of the outcroppings. The AT intersects the Wilburn Ridge Trail shortly after the cave which makes it easy to get on the top of the last outcropping before getting to Rhododendron Gap (turn left). This outcropping provides stunning views of Rhododendron Gap which is a large area (acres) of Catawba (purple) Rhododendron. The flowers make the area very beautiful when the rhododendron is in bloom, normally around June 10. Backpacker magazine recently featured this hike (at this time of the year) as one of their all-time best hikes.
There is a side trail to the north (of Rhododendron Gap) that passes between rhododendron bushes that tower over my 6' 3" tall frame. Another trail, the Stone Mountain Trail connects Rhododendron Gap to the AT at The Scales.
A bit less than a mile past Rhododendron Gap via the AT is the Thomas Knob Shelter. Shortly thereafter, there is a trail to the top of Mount Rogers, (5729'), which is the highest point in Virginia. It is .7 mile each way and is well worth the side trip. There are no views at the top, but the vegetation is characteristic of southern Canada, hundreds of miles to the north. The trees are Red Spruce and (the northernmost natural stand of) Fraser fir. It is a very interesting mountaintop.
Elk Garden is located where the trail crosses VA 600, which runs between U.S.58 (east of Summit Cut) and VA 603 east of Konnarock. It is a large open field on the east side of the road.
The entrance to Grayson Highlands State Park is on U.S.58 about 9 miles west of Volney. There is a large parking area along the park road at Massie Gap and a backpackers parking area nearby - on the left side of the road to the campground. This is all several miles from U.S. 58 inside Grayson Highlands State Park. A 1/2 mile trail across the meadow from the Massie Gap parking area connects the park road to the AT.
So when should you go? The elevation at Massie Gap is above 3500' and most of the trail in this section is between 4000' and 5200' in elevation. Winter comes early and lasts a long time at these elevations. But it's the nicest place in the state to be when the temperature is hot - i.e. mid-summer. My favorite time is early June when the Rhododendron is in bloom. There is a campground in Grayson Highlands State Park at 3500', close to Massie Gap. This makes it easy to spend time at the cooler high elevations at/above 3500' when it is unpleasantly hot in the cities, and at the lower elevations of the state and region.
Also, when you visit Grayson Highlands State Park, don't miss Little Pinnacle. This is an astounding overlook at the top of the park. Continue to the end of the park road (at the Visitor's Center). Even if it's not open, walk around the left side of the building and follow the trail you find. When you get to a T, turn left and follow the trail for about 1/2 mile. Little Pinnacle will be on the left. This is a rock that is at approximately 5100' in elevation. The view from this point is one of my all-time favorites. To the right you can see Mount Rogers and Wilburn Ridge. Straight ahead you can see US 58, several tree farms and a few houses. But mostly you'll see the wooded hills, mountains and beautiful sky of 3 states - Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee.
Further on is Big Pinnacle which gives a nice view of Wilburn Ridge. And then the trail loops back to the T. These high points can also be reached by trail from Massie Gap - just cross the road from the parking area and follow the steep trail to Big Pinnacle, then on to Little Pinnacle.
Section by Section notes on the Grayson Highlands State Park/Mt. Rogers (NRA) area:
The first 2.3 miles of this section, between Virginia 859 and US 58 at Summit Cut has some of the more profuse stands of rhododendron that I have seen on the Appalachian Trail. I would enjoy walking this 2.3 mile section of the trail again when this rhododendron (Rosebay - white in color) is in bloom.
Once north of US 58 (near Summit Cut), at about 3.5 miles, the trail crosses VA 601 (3600') and passes a house. The trail then gradually ascends Beech Mountain. Near the top of the mountain, the vegetation dramatically changes as the trail passes among Haw trees. The trail then emerges, at 5.1 miles, from the woods onto the large grassy upper slopes of White Top Mountain. At 6.0 miles, there is a nice view from Buzzards Rock (5150'). While the trail does not cross the top of White Top Mountain (5520') because of an electronic installation, it is possible to walk among Fraser fir and Red Spruce trees to the left of the trail just below the summit. After traversing the upper slopes, the trail briefly follows the White Top Mountain Road, then enters the woods and gradually descends. At 9.2 miles, the trail reaches Elk Garden (4434'), its intersection with VA 600 and the end of the section.
I walked this section on a sunny and pleasant day. The climb was a long pull which made for a good and enjoyable workout. The views were nice, especially the one from Buzzards Rock.
See also the special note on the Grayson Highlands State Park/Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area above!!
This section traverses the heart of Virginia's high country. A .5 mile trail connects the Massie Gap parking area in Grayson Highlands State Park to the AT. The Appalachian Trail then follows Wilburn Ridge to Rhododendron Gap. At .5 miles, the trail crosses a rail fence, leaving Grayson Highlands State Park and entering the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area of the Jefferson National Forest. At .8 miles, the blue blazed Wilburn Ridge Trail turns left to cross the cliffs of Wilburn Ridge. At 1.0 mile, the trail (AT) crosses an open field with Wilburn Ridge Peak on the left.
At 1.5 miles, the trail goes through Fat Man Squeeze Tunnel. This is a pleasant, cool spot to stop and rest or eat on a hot day. I recall hiking this section on one early June day (to see the Rhododendron in bloom). It was obvious that a frost or freeze had damaged the blooms over most of the area. However, the blooms on the rhododendron plants around the entrance to this tunnel had not been damaged. Apparently the air drawing out of the tunnel stayed above freezing and kept those plants and blooms from being affected by the freeze. (There is an alternate trail that bypasses the tunnel.) Shortly after the tunnel, the AT turns right. The blue blazed Wilburn Ridge trail turns left at this point and climbs a rock outcropping which gives a wonderful view of Rhododendron Gap.
At 2.1 miles, the trail reaches Rhododendron Gap (5440'). There are several side trails that leave the AT at Rhododendron Gap. One is the Stone Mountain Trail, a wide gravel trail that leads to "The Scales", which is further north on the AT. Another leads through a tunnel among the rhododendron. It should be noted that the rhododendron here is Catawba Rhododendron, which is purple in color.
Leaving Rhododendron Gap, the trail crosses a fence at 2.5 miles, then reaches the Thomas Knob Shelter at 2.9 miles. At 3.3 miles the trail turns left, and begins to descend. Straight ahead, from this point, is the Susan Spillane Memorial Trail which leads .5 mile to the summit of Mount Rogers (5729'), the highest point in Virginia. It is covered with dense Red Spruce and (the northernmost stand of) Fraser Fir and provides no views. However, it is one of the most interesting summits that I have visited in all of my hiking. It is a microclimate, showcasing what the vegetation and climate is like many hundreds of miles to the north, in southern Canada.
At 5.0 miles, the AT crosses the Virginia Highlands Horse Trail. There is a horse camp (with hitching posts) along the trail in this area. At 7.1 miles, the trail reaches Elk Garden, VA 600 (4434') and the end of the section.
From Massie Gap, which is along the Grayson Highlands State Park road, 3 miles from US 58, there is a .2 mile blue blazed access trail to the AT. This section begins where the AT and this blue blazed trail intersect. The first portion of this section is along Wilburn Ridge. It begins by passing several rock outcroppings and cliffs. Then the trail enters woods, descends and at 1.3 miles crosses Québec Branch (stream). At 2.2 miles, the trail reaches the Wise Shelter, followed by a bridge crossing Little Wilson Creek and then a bog that is traversed on stepping stones.
There were large stands of rhododendron along both Québec Branch and Little Wilson Creek. Both of these stands of rhododendron were full of very profuse blossoms which made the plants look white, almost as if they were covered with snow. I've never seen such a heavy, profuse display of blossoms on rhododendron bushes anywhere else (and not again in this area either - such heavy bloom years are infrequent). The weather had been cooler and wetter than normal, which surely was responsible for the lateness of the bloom, but probably not its profusion. I was delighted to have been there at just the right time to see this display. It is one of the most prominent of my hiking memories.
I actually started this hike at the campground in Grayson Highlands State Park. I walked the Stampers Branch Trail from the campground to the Grayson Highlands State Park Visitor Center. From there I followed the Twin Pinnacles Trail over Haw Orchard Mountain to Little Pinnacle and on to Big Pinnacle. Then I followed the Big Pinnacle Trail to the park road at Massie gap and the blue blazed trail from there on to the Appalachian Trail. At the conclusion of the section, I walked the gated road from Wilson Creek back to the campground.
Where the Stampers Branch Trail crosses Wilburn branch (.7 mile from the campground - near the beginning of the hike), there was a tunnel cut out of a Rosebay Rhododendron thicket. This thicket was also as profusely white as the rhododendron thickets I passed through on the AT during this hike. I say "was a tunnel cut out of a Rosebay Rhododendron thicket" because that is no longer the case. In June of 2010, I walked to Wilburn Branch from the campground to see what the rhododendron and the bloom were like. I was dismayed and shocked to see that most of the rhododendron, "bushes" were denuded of their leaves and (at least looked like they were) dead. I have not been back to check the stands of rhododendron along Québec Branch and Little Wilson Creek. I can only hope that they are still as healthy as they were in 1997.
This was the last section of the AT that I walked in the Mount Rogers/ Grayson Highlands area. Starting from The Scales, the trail goes up over the open face of Stone Mountain to the east of Scales. The trail then enters the woods, eventually coming down off the mountain to the east fork of Big Wilson Creek, which it crosses on a bridge. At this point there is a road that leads to the Grayson Highlands State Park Campground.
This section is mostly a long green tunnel walk (through the woods). My main memories are of reaching a sign saying entering Lewis Fork Wilderness Area (at .2 miles), then a while later stopping at the Old Orchard Shelter (at 1.7 miles).
The Scales (4632') is a large fenced area at the lowest point between Pine Mountain and Stone Mountain. It was used to corral cattle for loading and unloading in the days when this high country was used for grazing. It's an interesting place to visit and pass through when hiking in the high country.
My understanding is that this high country area was logged over in the early 1900s for the purpose of grazing cattle. Now the entire area is fenced in and burros are maintained on it to keep it from again becoming wooded. It is the open, grassy character of most of this high country that gives the area such variety and appeal. It is my favorite area in the Eastern United States. I've hiked in the area numerous times, most often on the trails between Massie Gap and Rhododendron Gap.
I had originally intended to hike this as part of the 8.5 miles from Dickey Gap to Fox Creek. However, because of time constraints (of the friend hiking with me) and energy level issues (mine) on the day that we hiked the other part of the section, I broke it into two parts. This was the second of the two parts. I used the Barton Gap Trail, an old woods road to access the AT both times.
This was a pretty hike in late October. Most of the leaves were gone from the trees but the ones that remained were beautifully colored, mostly yellow. At .6 miles, there's a side trail to the Hurricane Mountain Shelter (3858'), with a privy nearby. At 1.6 miles, there is an intersection with the yellow-blazed Iron Mountain Trail - just before reaching the crest of Hurricane Mountain (4322'). Once past the crest of Hurricane Mountain (at 1.9 miles), the slopes get rather steep - mind you, the trail was not steep, just the slopes that the sidehill trail traverses. Just before arriving at Virginia 603, at 3.9 miles, the trail crosses a bridge over Fox Creek, then reaches VA 603 and the end of the section.
Temperatures were pleasantly cool under a crystal clear blue sky on this particular day. This was my next to last AT hike of 2010. Doing this short hike on this date, made it possible for me to finish the last of my AT sections between Damascus and I - 64 on the following weekend. That milestone was reached on The Priest (section), well to the north.
Barton Gap Trail (approximately 3200') to Dickey Gap at VA 16 and VA 650 (3313')
My friend Tim joined me to hike this section. He was pressed for time, needing to get back to the eastern part of Virginia for an evening engagement. Also it seemed like I was struggling with some sort of a low-grade bug. Nevertheless we had an enjoyable hike on this section - which doesn't have much change in elevation. There are several streams and stream crossings - especially one at the (north) end where there is a bridge over a creek - a nice spot for photos. Also there is a nice campfire circle at 2.5 miles where a blue-blazed trail turns left and leads to the U.S. Forest Service's Hurricane Campground on VA 650.
This was a beautiful, crystal clear, blue sky day. After the hike, Tim hurried off for his six-hour drive home. I took time for a brief nap, followed by a refreshing dip in Hurricane Creek (just across the road from the Barton Gap Trailhead) before heading home.
My friend Tim also joined me to hike this section. At .8 miles, the trail crosses the Virginia Highlands Horse trail. Then at 1.5 miles, there is a place where several other trails intersect the AT. It looked like at least one of them was a bicycle trail. One of them is a blue-blazed side trail leading 3.2 miles to the Raccoon Branch Campground. (There is no longer a Raccoon Branch Shelter.) At 2.1 miles, there is a high point that is close to 4000'. The Trimpi Shelter (2900') is at 4.0 miles. At 5.2 miles, the trail leaves the woods and comes out into an open field with a nice view of a mountain to the north. My friend Tim took a nice picture of me standing next to a post (marked with a white blaze) in this field.
It also rained briefly during this part of the hike, one of the infrequent times that I've gotten get caught in rain while hiking.
The trail heading north from Virginia 670 is at the edge of the woods and looks down on pastureland. Soon though, the trail turns away from the pastureland and ascends somewhat steeply. At 1.8 miles, the trail reaches the crest of Brushy Mountain, which the trail follows for the rest of the section. The trail guide indicates that the high point of the ridge is reached at 2.5 miles with views to the right of farmland in the Rye Valley. However, if there was an overlook, it's now overgrown. Virginia 601 is reached at 3.9 miles. It is a gravel road that turns off of Virginia 16 several miles south of I - 81. It's a pleasant gravel road which I used twice to access these AT sections.
The Mount Rogers National Recreation Area Headquarters is about 5 miles south of Interstate 81 on Virginia 16. It's an interesting place to visit with lots of information available on the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. The AT southbound leaves VA 16, then follows the driveway past the headquarters building and traverses the parking lot to its right. Just out of sight at the end of the parking lot is the Partnership Shelter. If you want to show a non-hiker what a trail shelter looks like, this is an easy place to do it. This shelter has a unique characteristic - it's the only shelter that I've seen that has a shower.
The trail continues past the shelter - I recall some stands of pines - dark, but pretty sections. The trail crosses a stream several times, then passes under a power line on the crest of Brushy Mountain. At 2.9 miles, there is a peak with large rock outcroppings. The section ends at Virginia 601, a nice gravel road (see notes at end of section above).
The beginning point of this section is to the right of the main building of the Settlers Museum on Virginia 615. This point is several miles from exit 54 on I-81. Follow the signs to find the museum.
Note of special interest: the Settlers Museum is on US Forest Service property, therefore it is legal/okay to camp on the property. The staff and board of the museum have been very gracious and helpful to me in that regard.
Leaving Virginia 615, the trail passes through some woods, then soon reaches a place where a side trail turns to the left. This trail leads to some of the buildings that are part of the Settlers Museum. Appalachian Trail hikers are welcome to follow this trail and look around the area and the buildings it leads to.
Continuing on, the trail crosses under a power line and then at 1.5 miles, crosses U.S. Forest Service road 644. Soon thereafter (at 1.7 miles), the trail passes the Chatfield Shelter and begins to get into stands of rhododendron as it climbs. This mountain is known as Glade Mountain. The trail ascends through a rhododendron glade, reaching a log bench with an excellent view of the valley and ridges at 3.0 miles. The crest of Glade Mountain (3900') is reached at 3.8 miles. The trail then descends to USFS 86 (forest service road - 3530') - at 4.6 miles.
About a year before I hiked this section, I had the opportunity to drive USFS 86 (south of its intersection with the trail). The stands of rhododendron along the road were very profuse and healthy. None of the stands of rhododendron along the trail were quite as impressive as what I saw along the road. There wasn't much rhododendron at the actual AT crossing of USFS 86 (3530'). It's my understanding that the road has since been closed to traffic at the south end, so it's no longer possible to drive the road.
Following the road crossing, the trail ascends to the top of Locust Mountain (3900') at 5.1 miles. At 6.1 miles, the trail reaches the ridge of Brushy Mountain, then at 7.5 miles, it's crest (3700'). At 8.1 miles, the trail crosses Virginia 622. It then ascends briefly before descending a bank to VA 16, the end of the section and (just across the road) the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area Headquarters.
I actually walked this section a few hours after I completed the section from the Settlers Museum to Virginia 16, notes of which are immediately above.
Heading south from VA 617, the AT briefly traverses woods, then crosses a couple of meadows before reaching VA 683 at 1.0 miles. The trail then follows VA 683 under Interstate 81 and on to route US 11. The trail briefly follows US 11 to the right until it turns left into a long field and gradually gains elevation. The trail reaches the crest of the hill and goes into woods at 1.4 miles. It then descends and crosses a railroad track and the Middle Fork of the Holston River at 1.9 miles. From there it moves back and forth between woods and field, ascending and descending until it reaches the Settlers Museum at 3.8 miles. The trail does also cross VA 729 at 3.2 miles.
This was one of those days when the chance of precipitation was 20%. I got caught in a shower, not too heavy, but lasting for about half of the time it took to walk this section.
This was an interesting section to walk. Doing this section only one week before making a significant family trip made it possible for me to complete all of the AT between Interstate 64 (near Waynesboro, Virginia) and Damascus, Virginia (almost Tennessee) by the end of October of 2010 - also the end of my hiking season for the year.
This was an interesting section to walk. Leaving VA 617, the trail traverses a field, first following a fence line, then turns right through the fence and and gradually ascends a hill through a pasture. There are nice views to the south - if one remembers to turn around and look. At the far edge of the pasture, there is a stile, at the edge of woods. As I approached it, a bull standing to my right seemed to be guarding the stile. As I moved past him, he suddenly backed up a few paces, then immediately moved forward enough to make up those couple of paces. Fortunately he didn't come any closer and I quickly made my way across the stile.
The descent, then ascent through the woods was pleasant. I soon came to the location of the Davis Path Shelter - at 1.6 miles and 2840'. However, the only things present were the floor of the shelter and a privy (nearby). It looked as though the shelter was in the process of being rebuilt. Nevertheless it was a pleasant stop for a little snack. The trail then crosses Brushy Mountain, at 2.2 miles, followed by Gullion (Little Brushy) Mountain (3300'), at 3.3 miles. It eventually descends into Crawfish Valley (2600') which is at 5.2 miles. The trail guide indicates that there is a plaque commemorating an old homeplace a short distance from the trail. I didn't take time to look for that. However, there were very prolific stands of rhododendron, making the valley very memorable. The trail then climbs Big Walker Mountain, reaching the crest at Tilson Gap (3500') - at 6.9 miles. The trail then descends the northwest side of Big Walker Mountain. As you come off the mountain, you get into pastureland. It's obvious that you're close to someone's farm as you follow fence lines and then in between two fences for several tenths of a mile. At 8.3 miles, the trail reaches VA 610 (2700') at the Bland - Smyth county line.
There really isn't much parking on VA 610, just on the grass between the road and the fence, but that was adequate for my small car. The car was parked there overnight, probably for a total of about 20 hours. When I got into the car and started it, I noticed some shrill squeaking. I figured it was some kind of animal noise, but the car seemed to be fine, so I went on my way. When I got home and opened the hood, I found the significant beginnings of a birds nest on top of the battery.
There isn't much in the way of views on this section of the trail, at least not after you get into the woods after the field at the beginning of the section. But it was a very nice walk on a day that was crystal clear with a nice blue sky. Somewhere in the vicinity of Little Brushy and Gullion Mountains, I passed a woman with a dog. She wasn't carrying any hiking gear (as best I recall). Rather, it looked like she probably lived nearby and was just out walking her dog on the trail.
I walked this section on the late afternoon of the day before the section immediately above this. Leaving Virginia 610, the trail traverses a field. I briefly found it a bit difficult to locate the trail, but ultimately I was able to successfully follow it uphill until it went into the woods, at .3 miles, and became easier to follow.
At 1.3 miles, the trail turns right on a farm road. Then at 1.4 miles, it reaches the gravel VA 742 and turns left across a low-water bridge. The trail then immediately turns right and proceeds through woods. At 1.8 miles, the trail turns right and crosses a stream, then gradually ascends through an open meadow on a farm road. Just before reaching Virginia 42 the trail gets back into woods. It reaches VA 42 at 2.4 miles.
When I reached Virginia 42, I noticed that the trail continued straight ahead across the road. I followed it through the woods around the backside of the (O'Lystery Community) picnic area until it intersected the trail to the right of the picnic area. I did that because when I hiked the following section (see below), that section was either not there or we ignored it and just went up the side trail to the right of the picnic area.
Using county roads, I then drove from VA 42 to Atkins, VA on US 11 and then north to the Settlers Museum, near Groseclose. I spent the night camping on the property of the Settlers Museum, just after hiking this section and prior to hiking the previous section. It was a pleasant, quiet, legal (and welcoming) place to sleep among the trees.
I hiked this section with several other people from the Roanoke Appalachian Trail club as a club hike. It was a pleasant hike through the woods. At .9 miles, the trail reaches Brushy Mountain (3200'). The Knot Maul Branch Shelter (2880') is reached at 2.2 miles. The trail descends to Lynn Camp Creek (2400') at 3.3 miles. It then ascends to Lynn Camp Mountain (3000') at 4.1 miles. At 7.5 miles, it reaches USFS 222 and the end of the section. This section was actually the first part of a hike from Virginia 42 to Virginia 623 on Garden Mountain. For notes on that section, see the next entry.
Burkes Garden is an oval-shaped completely enclosed mountain valley. It's reported that George Vanderbilt wanted to build the Biltmore there. However the locals would not sell their land to him so he bought a large amount of land near Asheville, North Carolina and built it there.
I first hiked this section southbound with my friend Tim. Leaving the parking area on Virginia 623 the trail goes uphill through an area of trees that, at least in 2000, had been mostly stripped of their leaves. My assumption was that these were oak trees that had been stripped by gypsy moths. The trail follows the ridge with occasional views into Burkes Garden. As I noted, there are views from the trail into Burkes Garden. However most of the rocks that would make good viewpoints have trees grown so high in front of them that the views are not very good.
Walker Gap (3520'), at the southeast corner of Burkes Garden, is reached at 4.9 miles from the trailhead. From that point to Chestnut Knob Shelter (4410'), there is a steep elevation gain - nearly 900 feet across 1.3 miles. The shelter itself is a completely enclosed rock structure with a door to close the opening to it. There is a genuinely nice view of Burkes Garden from the shelter. Leaving the shelter, the trail gradually descends while remaining on the ridgeline until it reaches a spring fed pond. Then the trail leaves the ridgeline and descends steadily to USFS 222 (2300').
I also hiked this section northbound on 8/18/2001 with the group of people with whom I hiked the section noted above this one. As we ascended on that day, we passed a number of people from the Piedmont AT Hikers Club who were working on trail maintenance. They stated that northbound was the good direction to do this section, because the northbound climb was more congenial than the steep southbound climb to Chestnut Knob. They had a good point, but I thoroughly enjoyed hiking this section in both directions.
This was also a club hike with the Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club. There are numerous stream crossings in the first couple miles as you head south from VA 615. The trail ascends Brushy Mountain (3080'), then descends to Hunting Camp Creek and the Jenkins Creek Shelter in the valley bottom - at 2470'. Continuing on, the trail ascends Garden Mountain. At 7.8 miles, a blue blazed trail turns right. It leads .5 mile to Davis Farm Campsite (3600') and an overlook into Burkes Garden. The trail then descends to VA 623. If you have the opportunity, take a drive down through Burkes Garden. It's a very interesting, high (altitude) agricultural mountain valley.
As you leave VA 615 heading north, the first couple tenths of a mile of the trail pass through a wonderful glade of rhododendron bushes. There's a picnic table and ample space for camping. Then the trail ascends through the woods and then follows the ridgeline. There is an intersection with the Trail Boss Trail at 2.1 miles. A bit further along, there is an overlook to the northwest. At 6.4 miles, the trail reaches USFS 282 (3001'), which the trail follows until reaching US 21/52 at 6.9 miles. Upon reaching US 21/52 (north of Bland, Virginia), the trail follows the highway north, then (right on) VA 612, across I - 77 and on to the parking area on Kimberling Creek (2700') at 7.7 miles.
VA 611 is a gravel road. the AT crosses the road at the top of the ridge . This was definitely a "long green tunnel" section of trail with no overlooks. Somewhere near the middle of the section there was a short but very beautiful and fragrant section of pine trees. There is a lot of rhododendron as the trail descends towards the end of the section. Rain was threatening as I passed the turnoff to Helveys Mill Shelter, so I bypassed it. Thankfully, it didn't start raining until I got to the car.
My main memory of this short section is the Jenny Knob Shelter. I stopped there and talked with someone who was there, but I don't remember any details. It is a genuine "Long Green Tunnel"section.
I hiked this section with my friend Tim. During the climb up Brushy Mountain we were so busy talking that I don't remember a whole lot about it. The south end of Brushy Mountain (2900'), is reached at 1.3 miles. I don't recall any overlooks, though, the trail guide says there is a blue-blazed trail leading to views of the Kimberling Creek Valley and the mountains beyond, at the crest of Brushy Mountain. At 5.3 miles, the trail descends to Kimberling Creek through an open grassy area. I think I picked up a tick or two on my pants/legs, but was able to easily brush them off.
The bridge across Kimberling Creek is a high suspension bridge. Just after the bridge, the trail crosses paved VA 606. At the time we hiked the next 2 miles, some trail relocation work was in progress. I'm not sure how much of the trail that we were on was new trail, how much was previously existing trail or even how much was just temporary trail. But the relocation work has been completed by now. I had worked a day on part of that relocation and would like to go back and walk that section again - to see how it turned out.
We arrived at the Dismal Creek Falls Trail (2095') with dark clouds building overhead. As best I recall, we were able to cross the creek and get to the car before it began raining.
I might note that Dismal Creek Falls is a very nice place to visit. The pool at the foot of the falls may be deep enough for diving, I'm not sure. However it is certainly deep enough for a cool and refreshing dip on hot days. The parking for Dismal Creek Falls is along USFS 201. About a mile past Dismal Creek Falls (on the right) is White Pine Horse Campground and shortly after that is another campground (on the left). At least in 2000, these small campgrounds were free of charge. They each have a hand pump for water and an outhouse, but no other facilities.
I actually walked this section in three different portions across these two days. As you travel northeast on USFS 201 past Dismal Creek Falls, you come to White Pine Horse Campground on the right. Just after you pass the campground, another forest service road turns off to the right. The road turns left immediately after crossing a low-water bridge. Immediately to the right is a secluded clearing which is a wonderful primitive camping spot. I actually set up camp at that spot, then rode a bicycle down that road (past the gate) to where the AT crosses the road. I then hiked from there (on the afternoon of August 12) to Big Horse Gap on USFS 103. The trail at the beginning of this section is pretty level and close to a stream. There was a long, long stretch of Rosebay Rhododendron. The trail then leaves the rhododendron and passes a pond. The trail guide indicates there are overlooks as you ascend Sugar Run Mountain, but I don't remember noticing them. The trail crossing at Big Horse Gap, as the trail guide indicates is not easy to see from the road, but there is ample parking near the trail crossing. I hitched a ride with a couple of guys in a pickup truck back down to my camping spot and spent the night camping.
As usual, I wasn't expecting any rain. However I woke up on Sunday morning to the sound of rain. So I turned on the NOAA weather radio and learned that the rain was only a brief shower and would end within an hour. So I got up, ate breakfast and got ready to hike. By then, the rain had stopped and the sun had come out. I hiked the AT from the campsite to where I had left the bicycle the evening before - where the AT crosses the gated Forest Service road.
That brief walk of just a mile or so was one of the most memorable I've made on the Appalachian Trail. The walk was mostly through Evergreen trees, probably mostly Pine trees. There was still mist in the air and water droplets hanging from the needles. The sun shining through the mist and the water droplets made for a very beautiful walk.
When I got back to the campsite (by bicycle via the road), I walked southbound to the Dismal Creek Falls Trail, then retraced my steps northbound to the campsite. The main characteristic of this short section of trail is a lot of rhododendron on both sides of the trail.
When I got home that afternoon, my brother (The Climber) called me from Colorado. He said he had been unable to reach our parents, so he called me - which he might've done anyway - I'll never know. He asked me to pray for the hike/climb he was planning to make to the top of Capitol Peak. This is a 14,130' peak, one of the 54 Colorado Fourteeners (peaks over 14,000'). It is also considered to be one of the more difficult of the Fourteeners to climb. Looking back, I think he must have been somewhat concerned about his safety on the climb. The following Thursday, he died in a rockslide on a 13,500 foot sub peak (of Capitol Peak) known as K2. He had safely made it to the top of Capitol Peak. Then returning on the final steep, dangerous section of the climb (75 degree slope), and only 30 feet from safety, the rocks on which he was standing suddenly gave way. This triggered a rock slide which carried him 150 feet or so down the 75 degree slope and instantly killed him. Link
He was "taken" suddenly and unexpectedly at the young age of 43. However, we know that God is faithful and makes no mistakes - everything that happens to His own is permitted by Him. We also know that we will see him again when we also die and go to be with the Lord Jesus Christ. This hope, this assurance is the most valuable thing in our lives as his family members.
Looking back, I see the beauty of the woods after the unexpected rain as an (advance) reminder from God that He was/is in control, despite what happened. The mist and wet trees that resulted from the rain were made especially beautiful by the light of the sun shining through them after the rain. In the same way, The Climbers life as recorded for us in his journals reflects the beautiful light of his Savior, the Lord Jesus Christ. (link)
This hope and assurance (of never-ending life) is available to all who recognize and acknowledge their sin (or alienation) from God and look to Jesus Christ (through his death on the cross) for forgiveness and eternal life. "God so loved the world that he gave his only begotten son that whosoever believes in him should not perish but have everlasting life." John 3:16 link
I walked this section at the end of a period of rainy weather. As I began in the morning, the overcast clouds were still heavy and the ground and trees were still very wet. I don't recall there being a very good view from Angels Rest (at 2.5 miles and 3550'). However as I walked the crest of Pearis Mountain, it became clear that things were beginning to dry out. At 5.1 miles, the trail passes under a power line (3238') with a view. The trail then traverses a long area of profuse rhododendron and azalea.
About a mile and a half into the section, I discovered that I had failed to bring some of my food - notably a sandwich and fruit. I did have some nuts that were still in my pack from an earlier hike but not much else. At 8.3 miles I reached Docs Knob Shelter (3555'). I met two other hikers there, a lady and a man (not hiking together). The man had a deli sandwich that he didn't want which he offered to the woman. She turned it down, so I asked if I could have half of it. He offered me the whole sandwich, but I only took one half of it. It certainly was enjoyable and hit the spot after hours of hiking on a minimal amount of food. I don't recall why I only wanted one half of the sandwich - perhaps because I was near the end of the section and other food.
By this time the woods and trail had thoroughly dried out. The afternoon was sunny and beautiful. At 10.5 miles, the trail reaches Sugar Run Gap (3382') and crosses Sugar Run Road. The well-known Bears Den Hostel is a short distance down Sugar Run Road/Flat Top Mountain Road. At 12.1 miles, the trail reaches USFS 103 and the end of the section. I then drove to the hostel and enjoyed having the opportunity to meet a couple hikers and the proprietor of the hostel.